No matter what part of the country you are in, there will always be a demand for some good old-fashioned American barbeque. Different regions may not have as much of an interest in enjoying a rack of ribs or a pulled-pork sandwich, but there’s no doubt that there will be at least one quality barbeque joint wherever you go. The Western Slope is an example of an area not exactly known for its southern cuisine. I’ve come to learn that Grand Junction does two things very well: breakfast and beer. However, there is a spot in town for those looking for their fill of saucy smoked chow, coleslaw and beans. You just have to know where to look.

Parked right out in front of Shabby Chic off of Highway 6 & 50 heading toward 1st street is Have Cooker Will Travel. It sounds like sentence fragments of a company slogan, but it is in fact the name of a family business that is barbeque deliciousness. The food truck itself reopened in January of last year, but creating authentic barbeque dishes has been around in the Grand Valley for 10 years. Owner Lee VanHouten continued the family tradition his father started in Las Vegas and began catering local events using the slow roasting and smoking techniques that made his father’s business so successful.

The Have Cooker Will Travel food truck used to be on the corner of 1st and Patterson but switched locations along with Shabby Chic. The front of the restaurant-on-wheels is decorated with some Christmas lights outlining the exterior, a company banner and, most importantly, a metallic American flag. Parked behind the truck is the single most important tool for authentic barbeque, the industrial-sized smoker. Within that charcoal-black cauldron is where the meat is slow-cooked for hours and retains the savory smoky flavor that we all know and love.

Have Cookers Will Travel offers all the classics sandwiches: pork, beef, chicken and sausage, as well as ribs with a side of either baked beans or coleslaw. For those with a real craving for meat, the combo plate offers two of any of the meat options along with a choice of side and pickles. Thinking I had the appetite to handle it, I went for the combo of pork and chicken.

The meat is all cut on site and lathered in their own spicy house barbeque sauce. The pork is tender with a crispy outer layer and loaded with pieces of fat. The chicken was nicely seasoned and surprisingly juicy, which is definitely a preference of mine (biting into a piece of dry chicken is always a buzzkill).

Perhaps the most unique part of VanHouten’s barbeque is the coleslaw. Most coleslaw is just mayonnaise with a side of lettuce and shredded carrots, but the signature side dish here is lightly lathered, and you can actually taste the vegetables.

The only problem you will run into with a small operation is the price. Everything cooked at the Have Cooker Will Travel is done with care and consideration, and that is reflected in the cost of a meal.

Even so, they also have the market pretty much cornered in Grand Junction, which allows them to put their prices at whatever they want. It’s more expensive than the average food truck, but if you are looking for quality, home-cooked barbeque that will undoubtedly fill you up, it’s worth the price.

★★★½ / 5

mfreter@mavs.coloradomesa.edu